maxcelcat: (Default)
Tonight is the second last night I'm in Phnom Penh, the second last night of my trip.

Phnom is hot and still tonight, the top of my tshirt was soaked with sweat. I had a beerlao, following my tradition of having a beer in every country I've been to.

This country is sad in a lot of ways, here I am seen mostly as a source of American dollars by various vendors and drivers.

I lay out on the balcony, on a hammock, like the ex-pats of old, looking at the full moon and the clouds racing past it. A pair of contrails lined the sky, and for a brief moment, a plane was silhouetted against the moon. It's trails bisected the moon, and gave it whiskers on both sides for a moment, till they they drifted away. The plane flashed it's lights as it carried on across the sky. I'll be getting on one of them in about forty eight hours.

A man with no fingers tried to help me lift our bags into the back of a cab at the airport the other day, and we had no small notes to give him, so he just looked sadly at the car as it drove away.

This place is only a half a day from my home. I feel like such a lucky human tonight.

A huge cloud was gathering over the Mekong, and now and again lightning jumped around inside it.

All the dollars in my wallet and all the dollars in my account would not make a dent in the misery here...
maxcelcat: (What Would Henry Rollins Do?)
After a pretty hectic week in NY, I decided I'd take it a bit easy for my last few days.

The folks I was staying with actually headed out of town on the Friday - it was a long weekend with a holiday on the Monday - having hired a car in New Jersey 'cause it's cheaper. I think they headed out to Connecticut.

Leaving me with the awesome responsibility of feeding their fish! Which also meant I had to say goodbye to the lovely Yasmeen, whom I will use as a template for children of my own some day :-)

They'd be getting back from their long weekend about the time I'd be getting on the plane out of the country.

So I started my Friday by taking a walk through Central Park. I started around West 74th Street, near the Dakota Building, famous for it's resident, one John Lennon. And indeed Yoko Ono, who still lives there, but didn't respond to my promptings on Twitter.

Near said building in Central Park is Strawberry Fields, an area of the park dedicated to the memory of John Lennon. There didn't seem to be much to it when I walked past, except a lot of tourists watching a couple buskers(?) doing acoustic versions of Beatles songs.

Wait, I think I've missed something here... Ah yes, that morning I went and did a bit of shopping for bicycle gear at a place near where I was staying. Picked up a nice brass bell and some rain gear. Then I wandered over to Central Park, past Martin Luther King High School, which has a big sculpture out the front dedicated to him.

Where was I? Ah yes, walking through Central Park. I wandered down to one end of the lake they have there, then up a something called The Mall, which is a long straight path through the middle of the park. Tree lined, nice. Gave some money to a rather deft juggler. Saw one squirrel, but was too busy to engage with me.

Then I followed a path up to the south east corner of the park, which ended up dumping me on 5th Avenue, right near the Apple store. I'd promised some friends on Twitter I'd pop into it, so I did, via the amusing round glass elevator. It's in a large basement.

And half of freakin' New York was down there! It was soooooooo packed, I could barely move. The must ship a lot of merchandise from there. I looked at some prices on things, but just couldn't come at what they were asking, still. I took some photos, which look, strangely, like they're of a crowded basement store!

By this time, it was actually getting late in the afternoon - I'd spent a chunk of the middle of the day doing bugger all, which was nice. So I hoped on a train down to Times Square (again). I hate Times Square... Well, hate it too strong a word for it... It's generally full of milling tourists trying to take photos of moving billboards, a flock of folks trying to sell them shit at the same time. And surrounded by overpriced restaurants, mostly chains. But it is also on the way to a lot of places, close to a number of theatres, and has a place where you can get cheap tickets to Broadway shows. Which was why I was there - I wanted to get tickets to a musical. Avenue Q - more on that later.

I did spent a small amount of time in one store on Times Square - the Levi shop. Found a pair of black 501 jeans, which are impossible to find in Australia for some reason.

I dashed madly across town down to Canal Street, looking for a piercing and tattoo supply place I found on the internets. Canal Street is one of the old streets in town, and is a bit mental. It's all fake Rollex and other designer stuff being flogged from tiny booth-like shops. I kept my hand on my wallet there. And of course the piercing supply place was shut - who would have thought on a Friday evening at 7PM! This is New York, what kind of shop shuts that early???

Anyway, then I rushed back to Times Square to find the theatre that Avenue Q was playing in...
maxcelcat: (It's Time!)
OK, I'm so RIDICULOUSLY behind on my blogging it's not funny! Where was I?

Ah yes. On a Thursday morning in New York. I went for a quick walk past a bike shop (strewth, was that Friday? I can't remember... Ah, it was!) Ah, I remember, having re-read my own twitter stream. I went for a walk through Central Park... No, that was Friday. Argh! This will teach me not to update my blog often enough!

Aaaaaaaaaaaaah... Finally! Thank you twitter for replacing my memory! I spent Thursday morning in the International Center for Photography. Funnily enough, they don't allow photographs, so I didn't have any pictures in my Flickr stream to remind me :-)

There was an exhibition of Fashion photographs on. Not something I usually enjoy, but some of these dated as far back as the late forties, so they had a really great old-fashioned vibe about them. Lots of them were shot in Paris also, which must have seemed terribly modern and exciting at the time, but now looks so historic. So I really enjoyed the exhibition more than I expected.

Then I made my way over to the East Side, and ended up at the United Nations building. My hosts, Amanda and Vincent, work for UNICEF, in what sound like quite hard jobs. So they are in fact employees of the United Nations. So they checked me in as a visitor to the United Nations building! And I got to wander around.

It's an interesting and in fact quite old building. The main parts of it appear to date from the nineteen fifties, the decor and even the furniture being quite amusingly dated.

And being a visitor rather than a tourist, I got to go to lots of interesting places, like this one:
UN Security Council
That's the security council chamber. I wasn't allowed to sit in any of the seats - there are all sorts of protocols, as you can imagine.

We wandered the building some more, and my hosts were amused that I'd turned up in shorts and an Einstürzende Neubauten t-shirt - my tattoos got lots of odd looks as well! And so we couldn't make our way into the fairly formal upstairs dining room, and had to make do with the very busy cafe, which did however have a great variety of food.

Eventually they had to head back to work, and check me back out again as an ordinary civilian. I wondered down to the UN gift shop, which had terrible naff trinkets from lots of the member nations.

So that was my morning and my lunch. In the afternoon, I went too... The Museum of Modern Art!

Once again I did my gallery thing - although with lots of breaks because my legs were killing me after nearly two weeks of walking all over the united states. So I dismissed whole areas as being of little interest - but that still left stacks of galleries I had to wander through... And again I had that "Crikey, that very famous original painting is right here before my very eyes!" Including Picasso's rather revolutionary (and quite large) Les Demoiselles d'Avignon, and Salivador Dali's somewhat revolutionary (and quite small) "The Persistence of Memory" on almost the opposite wall.

There were also galleries and galleries of great Pollack's and still more Rothko's, and Robert Indiana's and Andy Warhol's. And also random things like a jeep and a helicopter...

And in all my travels and in all the galleries I've been to, I've yet to see one Australian work. Not one. Not even folks who you'd think might have a following outside Australia, like Peter Booth or Jeffery Smart or even Brett Whiteley. Or Howard Arkley for that matter. These folks are all extremely good artists, but it does make me wonder that maybe they're just big in Oz. It's not like their subject matter is specifically Australian, apart from the odd view of Sydney Harbour. Ah well, maybe I'll come across some in the London galleries I have yet to make it to...

And then I spent the evening in a diner, and then doing bugger all. Which was a nice change. The diner was ace. They're dying out apparently, seen as a bit old fashioned. But the Motzah Ball Soup was great, as was the lasagne and the really friendly guy who waited on my. Manhattan Diner on Broadway, up around West 77th or 78th Street, go there if you're in the town. And it's still there!

Linda

May. 28th, 2009 11:06 pm
maxcelcat: (Krazy Kat)
More out of sequence posts - sorry.

Monday night, May 18th, I had dinner with a woman called Linda. Who is my brother-in-law's mother (got that? Her son is married to my sister!), and is now the only native New Yorker that I know! Well, aside from Zach my sisters husband of course. But he lives in Cambodia and Linda lives on Long Island.

I was instructed to have dinner with Linda by my mother, who has never met her, although the communicate via email and what have you. And hey, I'm in a strange city, it's always nice to meet someone who vaguely knows of you :-)

And Linda is lovely! She has one of those classic Jewish New Yorker accents - er, if there is such a thing, maybe it's just a classic New York accent. We had dinner at a not bad Italian restaurant near where I was staying on Manhattan.

She's a retired school teacher, living somewhere out on Long Island (or maybe it was the outer edges of Queens, now that I think about it, which is still on Long Island). I told her about all the tourist stuff I was was doing in NY, which she found very interesting, because it's all stuff she hasn't done herself. Which is often the way with natives to a city, you live it in it your whole life but never, say, go up the Empire State Building. Or, as she put it, never go north of 96th street!

I also recommended to her the ferry I went on that trundled around the island.

We had a great time, got on like a house on fire, and I saw her off on the subway at 72nd street and Broadway. I should send her a postcard from my continuing world-wide adventures!

And so I guess technically she's family now, although I have no idea how that works - mother in law once removed perhaps??? Any suggestions?
maxcelcat: (Bug)
OK, where did I leave off? Ah yes, I had been out to see the Wet Spots Saturday night. And, strangely, after running around Manhattan for sixteen hours, I was a bit tired! So I slept in Sunday, for the first time in ages. I didn't wake until about 12.30 in the afternoon - blissful!

I was going to take it easy in the afternoon, but then thought - well, heck, I'm in New York, better make the most of it. So I went to visit the Empire State Building.

(There are some pictures towards the end of this set.)

The subway here gets me all disoriented. They deliver you across town, but then you come up some stairs on to the street and you have no idea which way you're facing or where you're supposed to go. The exit signs usually say useful things like "West 72nd Street, NW Corner" or the like. So I emerged from the subway station near the Empire State, and pulled out my map, trying to work out which way to head... Then I looked up. The Empire State building is quite a big one, as you can imagine... And there it was, about a block away! So much for needing directions.

The building is actually quite old, it was finished in the 1930's, so it has this lovely art deco thing going on. There are actually two observation decks, one on the 86th floor and another on the 102nd. The process is: queue. Buy a ticket to the observation deck. Take elevator to the 80th floor. Take another elevator to the 86th floor. (Later) buy another ticket to the 102nd floor. Take yet another elevator - this time an amusing retro one complete with attendant who manually opens the door - to the far smaller 102nd floor.

Most of the observation deck on the 86th floor is outside, and damn it was cold when I was there! Great view, obviously, but I didn't feel I was any higher than, say, the Rialto back in Melbourne. Maybe because New York is proportionally bigger!

It was interesting to see just how big Central Park is, it must take up fully 15% of the island of Manhattan.

I took the elevator up to the very top observation deck, on the 102nd floor, which was blissfully less infested with other tourists talking very loudly. It was quite amusingly retro as well, with art-deco designs on some of the glass features. You could also see some of the girders holding the thing up - I patted them to reassure myself that the seventy year old steel was holding up just fine.

The inevitable gift shop was full of the usual kitsch crap. You could even buy a DVD of King Kong, since it features the building in question!

After that, I headed back to the apartment, and eventually made my way to the West Side YMCA to use their gym. The YMCA is actually a hotel of sorts here, but has a huge gym. Unfortunately I mis-read the closing times, and they turfed me out after only about an hour. However they do also give you a towel with which to mop up your sweat!

I think that was more or less all I did on Sunday... I have been a busy cookie, before and after...
maxcelcat: (Milkshake)
Saturday was my first full day in New York.

I went for a walk down to Central Park with Vincent and Yasmeen, down past the Dakota Building. We played tag in a play ground, then hide and seek!

Central park is a lot bigger than I expected, complete with several lakes. It has a huge path around it, which was full of cyclists and horses towing carriages. It is also full of children and parents taking advantage of the space - apartments here are tiny.

After a quick bagel, I left Vicent and Yasmeen at the corner of Central Park and 69th Street (I think) and hopped on the subway. I quickly aquired a Metrocard, and after fighting with the turnstyle for a bit - the swipe for the card doesn't work in the direction one might expect - I found myself having to find a platform. I had at least five to chose from! Eventually I found the line I was looking for, and I was on my first subway journey!

I hopped off the train at Times Square, which was about as hideously infested with tourists as I had expected. But I did acquire a map of Manhattan, and located a half price broadway show tickets booth. Which I will return to later to get tickets to see at least one musical - even though I don't like them much :-)

So I hopped on the subway again - I got the hang of it pretty quickly - and headed down to the World Trade Center Site. I still can't get over how big this city is. I went about six stations and I was still in middle of a busy city indeed!

The World Trade Center Site is... Well, now it just looks like a construction site. There's no evidence there of the events of that day, no scars on the surviving buildings. Mind you, it was seven or more years ago now. The only thing I could find was a cross apparently found in the rubble. It was mounted next to a church, just north of the site. It was literally part of the debris, unchanged from how it was found.

Some things of note at the WTC site: at least three different conspiracy theorists ranting away with different conspiracy theories next to the site. Folks selling weird books of photos about September 11th, complete with US flags on the front. And postcard recording before, during and after the collapse of the towers!

After that I wandered down to Wall Street, once I worked out how to get there. The Stock Exchange was closed, it being Saturday. Wall Street is actually quite narrow and mostly closed off from traffic. And indeed the stock exchange is actually around the corner... That end of town is the original city, and hence is a lot less well laid out than the rest of he island - the street layout is positively chaotic in fact. Which makes a nice change from the regular grid over the rest of the island, but also makes finding one's way around difficult.

From Wall Street, it's a short walk down to the waterfront. I found the terminal for the Staton Island Ferry, so I hopped on it! Along with half of France it seemed. About twelve tour buses disgorged a lot of French folks right into the terminal building.

I was very amused to see, wrapped around part of the terminal in big letters, a quote I recognised. A quote I though was very obscure, but apparently not. The line was "We were very tired, we were very merry. We had gone back and forth all night on the ferry" from a poem by Edna St Vicent Millay. Also the creator of the phrase "Burning the candle at both ends." I have a sudden urge to acquire some of her work.

The Staton Island Ferry is most famous for going past the Statue of Liberty. I thought I was being terribly clever by grabbed a seat at the front of the boat... Only to discover it was in fact the back of the boat. These ferries are the type that have two ends, like a tram, so they don't have to turn around, they just reverse direction for the return trip! D'oh!

I took some pictures of the statue, and various other mildly interesting landmarks.

At Staton island, fully 90% of the passengers got straight back on the ferry. Poor Staton island. I see why they call it the Forgotten Borough.

Back on Manhattan, I started walking through Battery Park, when I got a call from my host Amanda. She was in the East Village, and asked me to join them for dinner. So I used a neat Iphone app I downloaded, which told me to get on the subway at a station called Bowling Green, then to hop on to another line heading towards Queens. Which worked a treat - damn, the public transport here is serious and effective. And frequent...

The East Village is a bit like Fitzroy, only about fifty times larger! There was some kind of dance festival going on in a park. We wandered from there to a not bad Italian restaurant, where the presence of three children under four made for a typically chaotic dinner.

Later we started walking north, to catch a subway, past the oldest bar/pub in New York, and through a random Ukrainian festival that was on. This city is a busy one... This was a typical spring weekend apparently...

On the way home, we stopped off at a sculpture called "Alamo", which is cube balanced on one corner... Which is moveable! If you push it hard enough, it actually turns around and a round. So we spun it for a bit...

As we were wandering west, I realised we'd crossed a street called Lafayette. Later that evening I was planning to see a band at a bar there called "Joe's Pub" (a less pub-like place I can't imagine...) So I abandoned my new friends, said good night to Yasmeen, and doubled back to find this gig... Which requires a whole separate entry.....!
maxcelcat: (Bug)
(See lots of pictures here.)

I arrived in New York on Friday local time, in the afternoon, at Penn Station. The train from Maryland - Baltimore/Washington International Airport Amtrak station to be precise - was a mighty relaxed affair. I also discovered that my years of weight lifting have been of use, when I managed to throw my entire 20 kilo suitcase into the overhead rack!

The train passed through Baltimore, parts of which looked really beat - ruined and burnt houses, neighbourhoods with trash all over the streets. It also passed through Philadelphia, and several towns in New Jersey. I tried to take some pictures of the passing country side, but inevitably the view I was trying to capture had slipped out of sight before I could get my camera ready. Or was behind trees etc. So I took lots of blurry shots of passing foliage!

Like everything else in New York, Penn Station is Huge. There must be three or more different train lines that meet there. I managed to drag myself out of it on to some street, which was as busy as I had been lead to expect in New York. I queued to get a cab over to the UNICEF building to pick up the key from my host Amanda. Whilst I waited in the lobby, a chap with a sniffer dog checked out my luggage!

Then I caught a cab all the way across town to West 74th Street. The cab driver I had was very apologetic about how hard it was to get across town, suggesting that we try 66th street, which passes under Central Park. I said whatever, you have a better idea than me! It was actually not a bad cab ride, about what I expected for New York.

After I dumped my stuff, I decided to go for a wander around the area to orient myself. Which took about two seconds - New York, at least at this end, is easy. It's a long thin island oriented north-south, with the Hudson on one side and Central Park in the middle. I wandered down to Broadway, which runs the length of the island, and then over to the Hudson where I came across some interesting piers and old machinery.

Finally, I dragged myself back to the apartment where I'm staying, and met more of my hosts - Vincent and Yasmeen!

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